Overlooking Porthcurno bay in Penzance, the Minack Theatre is quite possibly the coolest thing that I have ever seen, ever! And I’m not even a theatre fan!

The Minack Theatre

Basically, it’s an outdoor theatre built into the side of a rather steep hill, overlooking a rocky outcrop into the ocean. It was built largely by one woman – Rowena Cade – over the course of her life; she was still toiling away at it well into her 80s! This alone is an achievement in itself, but when you actually see the result of her handiwork, it redefines the word “impressive”.

The Minack Theatre

Pictures don’t really do it justice; you need to see it for yourself! Honestly, it’s amazing, and at only £3.50 each to visit (not to mention that it’s the only place in Cornwell where we haven’t been charged for parking) it scores extremely well on Julian’s admission price:interest ratio.

For our final four days in the UK, and our final road trip in Gazpacho, we left London on Monday morning and headed out to Cornwall – the south-western most county of England. We’re staying here until Thursday, when we’ll zoom back to London to drop off the car to it’s new owner, before making our way to Heathrow for our final departure!

The drive out here is long – in the region of five hours – so we took a number of breaks along the way. When we saw signs to Cheddar, we knew that Sister Susan would never forgive us if we didn’t stop to pay homage to the birthplace of her beloved cheese, so we made a quick detour to check out it.

Cheddar

The area’s main drawcard is in fact not a bunch of cheesey attractions (see what I did there?), but instead the gorge, and the caves where it’s thought that the cheese was originally made. But at £17.50 a pop for a tour of the caves (“The ticket is valid for 10 years!” says the ticket lady), and with two-and-a-half more hours of driving ahead of us, we gave them a skip.

We finally arrived in Newquay at around 5 PM. Kristy had read about a funky cafe called Cafe Irie which apparently made a delicious afternoon tea, and even though it was a bit late in the day for it, we decided to give it a whirl anyway. Funky, it most certainly was!

Kristy at Cafe Irie

Their food was excellent; Kristy especially can verify this, as she received two servings of pancakes instead of the two pancakes that she thought she had ordered. That’ll pay her for being indecisive with her toppings! Funniest of all though, the waitress didn’t even bat an eyelid at how much food it was – she must have thought Kristy was taking the whole “eating for two” thing very literally!

Pancakes!

This turned out to be more than enough food to see us through the evening, so after a very quick walk around the town, we checked in to our hotel and had ourselves an early night.

We based ourselves in Killarney for day three, as there’s loads to do in that part of the country. First up was a visit to Ross Castle.

Ross Castle

Turns out there’s not much to do at Ross Castle, unless you’re willing to shell out cash for a tour of the lake. Willing we were not, so we instead headed down to check out the Torc Waterfall. We all agreed that it was very waterfally.

Another big drawcard of the area is Gap of Dunloe. We were told that it’s “near impossible” to drive through the Gap, and were instead encouraged to rent some horses (for the girls) and a cart (for Philip and us). Of course, this all turns out to be a huge myth – it didn’t look any more precarious than the rest of the driving we’d done – but the Irish lad who drove our cart was quite entertaining, and well worth the cash – though I hope for his sake, he invests some of it on some underarm deodorant. Poo-ey!

Gap of Dunloe

Old souvenir shop at the Gap of Dunloe

Persistent rain on day four ruined our plans to drive the Ring of Beara, so we took an early turn-off and headed back to Blarney to visit it’s famous castle. My expectations were very high after the glowing review it got from Julian, however I suspect they visited on a day that it wasn’t pouring with rain.

Blarney Castle

The Cookes were particularly amused at the lack of safety equipment fitted to the castle; instead, they merely blow off any potential lawsuits with a blanket warning along the lines of: “Old castles pose an inherent risk to visitors”. I suspect that the climb to the top of the castle (where the Blarney Stone awaits your tender loving kiss), up multiple sets of slippery, narrow stairs would definitely fall into the “inherently risk” category; but when in Rome Ireland…

Kissing the Blarney Stone

(Note the rain on my jacket!)

Despite Trip Advisor’s claim that this is the most unhygienic tourist attraction in the world, Dani, Philip and I all puckered up for the challenge – though I was somewhat comforted by the bottle of antibacterial surface spray that the attendant had sitting next to him, even if it was only for show. I dunno if my speech is, like, more eloquent now and stuff, but I definitely reckon that it’s done us wonders, ay!

View the Ireland photo gallery on Picasa or on Facebook.

We had a big day of driving ahead of us for day two in Ireland, so we made an early start at the crack of dawn – which according to Sam and Dani is around 10am. We drove along the beautiful coastline down to Kilrush, where we caught the ferry across the river Shannon. As it turns out, that was the first time the Cookes had been on a car ferry!

Crossing the River Shannon

We could see dolphins swimming in the channel from the deck of the ferry – however it was nothing like the seaworld dolphins swimming in a pool, as pictured on the Shannon ferry website. I feel our journey was misrepresented!

On our way towards the Dingle Peninsula, on a particularly precarious stretch of road called Conner Pass, we passed two fairly harmless looking hitch-hikers, each carrying huge backpacks. I’ve never been tempted to pick up hitch-hikers before, but for some reason, we found ourselves discussing it between us at length. Too much length as it turns out, because by the time we decided against it, we were at least 1km down the road anyway.

We consoled ourselves that not picking them up was the probably the right decision, as we didn’t want to give the wrong impression (i.e. hitch-hiking is cool!) to the young Cooke ladies in the car right behind ours. However, only moments later when we stopped for some photos at a particularly scenic spot, we got a rousing from Natalie for making the wrong decision and not picking the poor backpackers up! Boy did we call that situation wrong!

Still, our stop was for the view – and it was particularly scenic, despite the rousing.

Conner Pass

Anyway, the universe must have heard all the yelling, because about half-an-hour later, two more hitch-hikers presented themselves to us. And they turned out to be lovely! An older (mid-sixties, maybe) couple from the French/Swiss border, who had spent a good portion of their lives hiking around in Europe. They had a decent knowledge of the area, and they pointed out all the good spots for us to take photos – of which there turned out to be many! It’s a very scenic drive!

Dani

Dingle Peninsula

One of the sites that our hitch-hiker friends pointed out to us was a collection of “beehive houses” dating back to 2,000 B.C.! It was €2 each to go in, which also scored us an informational sheet about the historic site. I ended up splashing out an extra €2 to cover Samantha’s entry fee, and in return I insisted on the unofficial audio tour (i.e. I made her read the sheet aloud for us all). Best €2 I spent for the whole trip.

We finished off our tour of the very scenic Dingle peninsula, made a quick stop for a chip buttie for Kristy, and then drove to our hotel in Killarney (which turned out to be awesome!). We were glad to have had such amazing weather for the drive, as we knew that Ireland was not known for its sunny skies!

Our holiday in Ireland technically started late on Wednesday night last week, but I wouldn’t count our stay in the Cork airport Travelodge hotel as one of the highlights of our trip. No, things really kicked off on Thursday morning, when Philip and I picked up our respective sets of wheels, before we all headed off to Doolin to see the Cliffs of Moher.

The drive took around three hours, which put us in Doolin square on lunch time. Only seconds after complaining to Kristy that all of the good parking spots were being taken up by a Paddywagon Tour bus did we realise that cousin Kylie was on a Paddywagon tour of Ireland at that very moment! And only a few seconds after that, who did we happen to run in to? Yep, cousin Kylie, with her friend from Australia – Prim!

Kylie and "Prim"

There’s an outside chance this photo wasn’t taken on location; there’s an even more outside chance that that’s not even Prim in the photo. But hey, when you forget to take a photo in the moment, you have to improvise… and the blonde one on the left is definitely Kylie.

First up on our activity roster was a boat cruise along the Cliffs of Moher. We selected a tour operator on the very specific criteria of having availability shortly after the time that we turned up; not to mention their amazing internet site (judging by the standards of 1998). Truth be told, we were a little early, so we waited it out in the car, and hoped that the rain would pass before we hopped on the boat (which it thankfully did).

Peugeot in the rain

Though the rain passed, the wind didn’t, and it made our trip out to the cliffs extremely rough. I’ve never been on a boat which rocked up and down so much – it was honestly like being on a roller coaster. People squealed! Stomaches dropped! Natalie fed the fish! It was totally awesome (though I think Natalie disagreed).

All of this, simply to get a close up view of the cliffs. Rather than go into a load of detail about the landscape (which I actually don’t know anything about), I’ll leave it at, “the view was lovely”.

Cliffs of Moher

We sailed up close to that spiky rock cropping out on its lonesome (on the right in the photo above), and then sat there for a few moments to enjoy the photo opportunity. It was covered in loads of birds of various types – the ones that stood around like penguins reminded me very much of penguins. There were puffins about the area too, though I can’t see any of them in this photo.

Bird covered rock

Our sail back to land was somewhat smoother, and I think most people were relieved to step off the boat.

Our hotel was only a little way up the road, and after checking in, Kristy spent a good 45 minutes rigorously testing that the bed was adequate for a full night’s sleep. After she emerged to report her findings, we all headed to McGanns Pub for dinner and some traditional Irish music. Admittedly I didn’t jump up and entertain the crowd with my Australian/Jamaican rendition of an Irish jig, though this is mainly due to there not being enough space for an impromptu dancefloor. That, and I didn’t want to steal too much focus off the band.

McGanns Pub

It was very late by the time we were done, and we were all quiet tired, so back to the hotel we trolleyed, to double check Kristy’s findings from earlier in the day. I’m pleased to say that her testing was excellent, and her results were accurate – we all slept very soundly!

Berlin is totally gay! Well, that’s not strictly true, it’s not totally gay, but it is the third largest gay city in the world, behind (heh heh) San Francisco and Sydney. Somehow we managed to visit on the weekend of the annual gay pride walk, and suffice to say, there were some interesting characters about!

After the parade

Queerness aside, I have to say that of all the places that we’ve ever been to, nowhere makes me wish I’d have paid more attention in Modern History class than Berlin. The amount of history crammed into the one city is nothing short of spectacular, and we did our best to learn as much of it as possible while we were there. To this effect, we signed up for a walking tour on Saturday afternoon, which was led by a rather upbeat young Swede named David. He reminded me a bit of John B, but Kristy didn’t really agree.

Not John

He was rather passionate about Berlin, and consequently he made for a really great guide. And the tour itself – though clearly well worn, based on the number of other groups that we bumped in to – was excellent, and I’d highly recommend it to any visitor. Truth be told, we tried to get ourselves onto a Segway tour, but it was booked out!

We covered loads of historic sights in our four hour walk, and David taught us loads of things about the city. I particularly liked the outdoor exhibition about the Berlin wall which he showed us (near Checkpoint Charlie); so much so that we came back on Sunday so we could read it all in detail. To commemorate the wall, two rows of cobbled stones have been laid along the path of the outer wall, and it was cool to see it weaving around throughout the city. What a different place it must have been.

Wall at the Reichstag

Admittedly, our guided walk made us double up on a few of the sites, since we had spent the morning exploring on our own. On our flight over, I had read that the glass dome on top of the Reichstag was best visited either first thing in the morning, or last thing in the evening, in order to try and avoid the crowds. We heeded this advice and went along shortly after they opened at 8 AM, and even then we were greeted by a fairly lengthy line.

Kristy in front of the Reichstag

Line at the Reichstag

After about 10 minutes, a large tour group was let through in front of us, and we were stopped right in front of the next security barrier. Upon seeing that Kristy was pregnant (and perhaps with a bit of emphasis by Kristy rubbing her stomach) the security boy took pity of us and sent us straight in via a secret side entrance! Score!

The walk up and down the giant dome provided us with a great view over the city, and the accompanying audio guide did a pretty good job of pointing out some of the city’s sights. Best of all – it was entirely free!

Walking up the Reichstag

Berlin Hauptbahnhof

The Brandenburg Gate and the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe are both close to the Reichstag, so we paid them both a visit too.

Brandenburg Gate

Memorial to Jews

The Hotel Adlon is also fairly close to The Reichstag, but it wasn’t until the conclusion of our guided tour that we learned of its significance. It turns out that loads of famous people have stayed there over the years, but perhaps none more famously than Michael Jackson, who proudly showed off his baby to the world by dangling it over the balcony!

Hotel Adlon

One thing I particularly like about visiting Germany is the food, and, Berlin was no exception to this. On the beverages front, Kristy fell in love with apfelschorle; however I stuck to the safety of beer – bless those Germans and their purity law! We also enjoyed many fine meals, including bacon knuckle with sauerkraut, pork schnitzel, currywurst (pork sausage in tomato and curry sauce), and Zürigschnätzlets (veal in a creamy mushroom sauce). Yum!

Currywurst

I loved our time in Berlin, and our hotel was ideally situated thanks to a recommendation from Eva. Two days was barely enough to scratch the surface though; I think I’ll be putting it on to the list of places to visit again in the future!

View the Berlin gallery on Picasa.

For the second long weekend in May, our personal travel planner – Suzie – organised an extended long weekend in Lake Garda. We took the early flight from Gatwick to Milan on Friday morning (which meant waking up at 3:45 AM, w00t!), then drove for 2.5 hours or so, up to Riva Del Garda where we checked in to the Parc Hotel Flora for four nights.

Driving in Italy is not always the greatest fun. Italian drivers are rude, arrogant, love to speed, and they tailgate like nothing I’ve ever seen before. We tried to take a photo of how close they drive – this is the best one that we got. Bare in mind that at this point we were driving at around 130km/h (which is the speed limit on Italian highways):

Tailgating Italians

On the plus side, it’s always a bit of a laugh to drive a left-hand-drive manual – changing gears with your right hand is downright weird when you’re not used to it!

As usual, the food in Italy was overall quite lovely, but our stand-out favourite place to eat – especially for Nick – was a restaurant called Al Volt. The concierge at our hotel had recommended it to us on our first evening, and it was so good that we ended up eating there again on our final evening. The food was deliciously prepared, the staff were friendly, but most impressive of all were the red wine glasses – each one was almost the size of a human head.

Massive red wine glass

On Saturday morning, we rode the Mount Baldo cableway up to an altitude of 1,800m, and had a walk around the peaks. Unfortunately it was too overcast to get a view of the lake, but we did get a decent view of the start of the alps.

Cableway

Admiring the view

We also grabbed a cache while we were there, dropping off a travel bug that I’ve been holding on to for a few weeks. Suzie was the one who spotted it and dug it out from under the rocks – her first cache!

Nick, Suzie and I signed up for some downhill mountain biking on Sunday morning, but when we got to the rental store, we discovered that the other three people that were supposed to be joining us had piked due to the inclement weather. Usually they wouldn’t go up less than four starters but upon seeing how keen we were, they decided to make an exception. Originally we had signed up for a tour called The Skull but since it was our first time, and it was raining pretty heavily, our guide decided to take us on a slightly easier route.

Pre-biking

It was so, so awesome! I was amazed at how much easier it is going over huge, rocky, staircase-like drops when the bike does absorbs most of the shock for you. I was well impressed by how solid they, and yet our guide told us that we were only riding the “cheap ones”, retailing for only $3,000! “Only”!

Lately, our luck with travel seems to be working against us, as wherever we go it rains! And for the first three days of our stay, this was exactly what we got – drizzly rain in the mornings, followed by overcast afternoons, then cool evenings. But our luck finally changed on Monday – the sun came out, the skies were a beautiful clear blue, and it was as warm as a freshly baked brownie!

Limone in the sun

We made the most of the sunshine by driving down to another town called Limone, where we rented a speed boat for four hours and did ourselves some touring. I can’t emphasis enough how much of a difference the sunshine made – it was like being in a totally different place! Of course, being sunsmart Australians, we did our very best to stay out of the direct sunlight.

Gerrod in the sun

We all had a go at driving the boat, and it was awesome fun. At full lock (and full speed of course), the boat turned so tightly that we almost thought it would tip! But try as we might (and of course, some of us tried harder than others… no names mentioned…), the boat stayed upright, which on reflection was probably a good thing.

Driving Kristy

Nick and I jumped overboard for a swim at one point, and it was freezing cold – we didn’t stay in for more than a minute! Not one to miss out, Suzie braved the water as well, but Kristy decided to give it a miss – she was the wisest of us all, I think!

Usually our vacations are non-stop from start to finish, as we try to cram in as much as we can into every day – so it was great to escape to Lake Garda and have Nick and Suzie show us how to holiday a somewhat more relaxed pace.

Suzie and Nick

View the Lake Garda photo album on Picasa or Facebook.

Here was me thinking that finishing that phrase with “a horse” was merely a comment on the size of your appetite; I had no idea you could literally eat horse. And yet, nearly all of the menus around Lake Garda – where we’re currently enjoying an extended long weekend – have sported some type of horse steak on them.

It seems so wrong, and yet, when you see it advertised everywhere, you can’t help but feel a little bit curious… and so, I tried it.

Mystery Meat

Now before you think less of me, just remember that (a) it’s quite popular in some cultures, and (b) it’s better for you than steak – it has less calories, fat, and cholesterol, and is higher in protein and iron.

But how does it taste? Pretty good, actually! It’s tender, like a medium-rare eye fillet, and it’s just a little bit sweet, with a distinct flavour of peppercorns and cream – though that’s perhaps in part due to the creamy peppercorn sauce that was served on top of it.

I don’t know that I’d eat it again – if I’m honest, the thought of eating horse still feels a bit wrong to me, and I think I’m going to go vegetarian for the next week to make up for it – but hey, nothing ventured, nothing gained. And, when in Rome, and all that…

Checking out a new city is always better when you’re there with an expert. With this in mind, we jumped at the chance when our Swedish friend Oscar (who I used to work with at CQS) offered us a tour of Stockholm. Aubain and Ingrid were on the same wavelength, so we all jetted off on Friday night after work to spend a weekend in the the capital of Scandinavia.

Stockholm is an absolutely beautiful city – so fresh and so clean! It’s actually composed of hundreds of little islands (well – 14 islands), so it’s hard to pick a photo that shows the “centre of the city”, mainly because I never really worked out where it was. Instead, here’s a photo of some water, buildings, and a park. The street on the right is Strandvägen, which according to Oscar is one of the most expensive places to live in the world.

Stockholm

The people who live there seem to be a bit of an enigma; clearly they want society to think the best of them for living in such a prestigious location, yet I saw at least two or three of the oldies sitting on their balconies and enjoying the sunshine – completely naked! Well, you know what they say about Europeans and nudity…

One of the great things about Stockholm is that all the streets are named after the most successful pieces of Ikea furniture. Take this sign for example, which not only points the way towards the Vasa Museum – but also towards Gälarvarvet street, named after their most successful ever line of dwarfish steak knives.

Street sign

We chose the path towards the museum, and enjoyed learning about the “most badass warship of its time” (as described by Oscar), which, in 1628, sailed about 150 meters out of port before sinking to the bottom of the harbour. But, as Aubain put it so well – trust the Swedes to turn failure into success, by rescuing the ship in 1961, painstakingly restoring it and housing it in a purpose built museum, and then charging the public 110 SEK (about £11) to visit! It was well worth it!

The Vasa

When we told people we were going to Stockholm, the phrase we heard most often was, “ohh, it’s expensive”. Some people used even more “h’s” on their “ohh”, like, “ohhhhhhh”. And oh my, were they were right – for lunch on Saturday, we had two salads and a bottle of sparkle sparkle (that’s water, by the way) for the princely sum of 502 SEK (around £50). Ouch! So with that in mind, we were pleasantly surprised when in the Old Town, we stumbled upon a little hole in the wall called Caffellini Bar, and I found myself drawn inside. I did my best to try to blend in with the locals; as opposed to Aubain and Ingrid, who did their best to not look like the locals.

Caffellini Bar

For 10 SEK (around £1), I wasn’t expecting too much from my macchiato, and yet it was exceptional! I would recommend the Caffellini Bar as the first port of call for any visitor to Stockholm!

We had enjoyed amazing weather on Saturday – perfect for exploring the town, grabbing some caches, and getting a bit of colour in our pasty white skin. As much as I’d like to say this continued on Sunday, it was actually the complete opposite – in fact, every time we went outside, it started pouring down, and every time we went inside, it stopped again! We were cursed! Thankfully, Stockholm is home to the largest photography museum in the world, so we had plenty of things to keep us busy. But we still got wet.

Stockholm in the wet

(That’s my photo by the way. The museum has approached me to feature it, but I’ve so far declined to comment.)

A huge thanks to Aubain, Ingrid, and Oscar for a great weekend away!

On Wednesday morning, we grabbed a final coffee (espresso for Kristy, Macchiato for me) from Burgus – our favourite coffee shop in Vernazza – before heading to the train station.

Burgus Bar

It was a fairly uneventful trip back to Milan – essentially just three hours in a packed train. The girl sitting next to me spent a good part of two hours preening herself, including hair removal, nail filing, and other acts which I’m doing my best to forget. Gross.

We checked our luggage at the train station then negotiated a subway into the city. Upon emerging, we were very impressed by the grand church-like building in front of us, but we were very under-impressed by the rain, which was still coming down!

Milan church

We didn’t have much time to spare, so we took a quick wander around the streets in search of food (which was harder than I had thought, though we found loads of coffee bars!). We ended up in a restaurant that looked quite fancy, and judging by their prices and their clientele, they catered mainly to hungry, desperate tourists. So I guess you could say – we were in the right place!

Somehow I completely messed up with times, and after a fairly panicked subway ride back to the train station, we were almost running to catch the bus back to the airport. With only 25 minutes until check-in closed, I almost had a hearty when I saw a road sign advertising that we still had 45km to go! But it all turned out ok; the decimal point had simply faded a bit, and it was actually only 4.5 kilometers left. Phew!

I don’t think our two hour jaunt in and out of the city counts as a “visit” to Milan, but it was still nice to do something a little different at the end of our trip. Also, we’ve heard it from many reliable sources that Milan is city that can easily be skipped – so perhaps two hours is enough, after all!

Photos from Cinque Terre, Pisa, and Milan now online for your viewing pleasure!